There was a time, not too long ago, when 'hair health' had different meaning. We crimped, zhou-shed, styled, and did the bare haircare minimum – unless those pesky split ends reared their ugly head. Largely, it didn't matter what was going on beneath the surface.
Today, our haircare routines tell a very different story. And much like the 'skin health' boom, they now revolve around an inside-out approach. Out are the overly processed, over-styled and covered-up ends (and all that hairspray). In is taking care of your strands just as you do your skin – with ingredients that nourish from root to tip, a laser focus on the skin barrier, and a holistic outlook towards hair health.
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Ask any expert and they'll tell you that healthy hair starts from within. 'Paying more attention to the health of the scalp and looking after the barrier function really is the key to hair health,' agrees Dr Sharon Wong, a consultant dermatologist and hair specialist. Let's call it the 'skinification' of hair – put simply, it's about prioritising scalp health, looking at lifestyle factors and calling upon the skincare ingredients you rely upon for your face in your shampoo bottles, hair treatments and scalp serums.
The winter months are a notoriously tricky time to navigate hair health, and you can very quickly be thrown off a carefully curated routine. But that means it's the exact right time to pay close attention to the health of your hair. Below, discover the route to shinier hair, as directed by experts in the know.
6 ways to get healthier hair this winter
School up on skincare
'The same processes that affect the health of our facial skin – such as UV damage, loss of collagen and elastin, microbiome imbalance, and oxidative stress – are the same processes that affect the health of our scalp,' shares Dr Wong. As an extension of the skin, it makes sense to prioritise skincare ingredients.
And there are a growing number gaining traction right now. 'Ceramides and hyaluronic acid in shampoos are a great way to support the skin barrier and moisturise a dry scalp,' explains Dr Wong. Another skincare hero that works wonders for your strands is hydrating heavyweight hyaluronic acid, which locks in moisture and reduces frizz.
To exfoliate the scalp, regardless of your hair type, look to salicylic acid, which can be used once a week as a scalp exfoliator 'to help maintain healthy cell turnover and remove surface dead skin cells'. Finally, there's niacinamide. 'It has multiple functions with anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties as well as for regulating sebum production and improving hair and scalp hydration,' shares Dr Wong.
Take an inside-out approach
It's not just topical skincare that's the secret to that A-lister glass-like shine. 'Feeding the follicles with a balanced diet that's rich in protein, vitamins, minerals, low GI carbs and good fats is essential to provide the energy and nutrients required to keep up with the rapidly dividing hair follicle cells,' shares Dr Wong.
'The hair is the very last system in your body to receive nutrients (as it is one of the least essential) so, if your body is not receiving adequate nutrients, your hair will suffer the consequences,' agrees Stephanie Sey, a trichologist for Nizoral, who recommends B1, B7, and B2 vitamins (found in foods such as oats, bananas, and avocado).
Lack of vitamin D due to less sunlight – the usual culprit for causing Seasonal Affective Disorder (or SAD) – could also be taking a toll on your strands. 'Vitamin D supports the immune health of the scalp, whilst also retaining hydration and helping the skin fend off yeast or bacterial organisms,' adds Sey. Look for a vitamin D supplement or load up on eggs, oily fish, and red meat.
Lower your cortisol levels
So you've heard about the major impact stress has on your skin. It's well documented – cortisol can break down collagen, inhibiting skin cell turnover and resulting in fine lines and loss of elasticity. But tipping into a state of fight or flight also takes a toll on hair health. 'Stress is a major and often overlooked cause of a range of hair loss conditions, from shedding to patchy hair loss and an inflamed, itchy scalp,' explains Dr Wong.
It can be easier said than done if you've got a high-flying job, a never-ending to-do list or you're dealing with chronic stress, but as Dr Wong says, 'developing coping mechanisms to help process stress can have a huge impact on your hair's overall health.'
Prioritise scalp health
The health of the scalp and skin barrier (the lipid barrier that protects the scalp) are crucial for healthy hair. 'The hair follicle is a highly active dynamic mini organ embedded within the skin; its structural support, nutrient supply and cell signalling that govern the hair growth cycle comes from its close connection to the skin,' says Dr Wong.
Fable & Mane Hair Oil - £25
Hailed by some as a 'miracle product', this is said to banish a flaky scalp in just one use. The idea of putting a very oily oil on your hair may scare you, but a thorough rinse (it goes on dry hair, happily) will sort that right out.
Philip Kingsley Scalp Toner For Flaky & Itchy Scalps - £22 for 250ml
Developed by Trichologist Anabel Kingsley, this targets stubborn dandruff by immediately soothing but formulate to continue working to heal and cure the cause of the flakes. A good option if you have a favourite shampoo and conditioner you want to stick with, as this can just be added on afterwards.
Living Proof Restore Dry Scalp Treatment - £25
Lightweight so it won't add greasiness or stickiness, this post-cleanse treatment helps to stop that itchiness that can occur on irritated scalps. If you've found that a change in temperature or environment has cause a scratch-inducing flare up, reach for this.
Cantu Shea Butter Tea Tree & Jojoba Hair & Scalp Oil - £7.99
If you know your skincare ingredients, you'll be able to guess what this will do for you: the tea tree will clear and clean build up, and the jojoba will add a punch of moisture back into the skin. A brilliant high-street offering, especially for oilier hair types.
To prioritise scalp health this winter, Dr Wong recommends using a scalp shampoo, ensuring that styling products are thoroughly washed out to prevent build-up, and protecting the skin barrier from external aggressors such as pollution and UV damage with skincare actives.
Limit excessive styling tools
'Keep heat, chemical and traumatic hair styling to a minimum to help avoid split ends, hair breakage and traction alopecia,' adds Dr Wong. That also goes for how often you dye your hair, the temperature of your styling tools and even high-tension hair styles, which can cause damage to your hair follicles and even cause hair shedding or loss.
Imbue Curl Defending Heat Protection Mist
Ouai Anti Frizz Crème
Hair By Sam McKnight Save The Do Heat Protection Style Starter
Make seasonal changes
Finally, it's a good idea to make a few seasonal switch-ups. 'Cold air holds less moisture, so the winter months are generally quite drying on the scalp and hair,' says Dr Wong.
As hair typically becomes more dry, brittle and prone to breakage, a weekly hair mask can help restore and lock in moisture. Jennie Roberts, SheaMoisture's afro and textured hair expert, recommends a weekly deep conditioning treatment. 'Treatments rich in moisturising ingredients such as castor oil and shea butter can help strengthen and moisturise the hair, keeping it well-conditioned during the colder months,' she adds.
Sey also suggests hair steaming, a treatment that helps open the hair cuticle via moist heat, allowing deeper hydration and penetration of ingredients. 'This method is particularly beneficial for natural and curly hair, which tends to be more prone to dryness and can help improve scalp health by loosening dirt and dead skin cells and reducing dandruff,' she says.
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